Beautifully vibrant and precise, the 2018 Fleurie Joie de Palais wafts from the glass with a pretty bouquet of raspberries, red plums, peonies and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, lively and elegant, it’s built around fine, powdery tannins and a tangy spine of acidity. Built for the cellar, this will show beautifully after four or five years of bottle aging, and it will continue to improve for a decade or more. This 1.5-hectare parcel of steeply sloping decomposed pink granite was planted in the 1950s.
The fourth vintage of Beaujolais newcomer Domaine Lafarge-Vial is a great success, and I found much to admire in all these new releases. Acquired in 2014 by Volnay’s Frédéric Lafarge and his wife Chantal, née Vial, this four-hectare domaine is biodynamically farmed. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented with punch-downs and pump-overs during the maceration, followed by pressing in a vertical press. Maturation is in well-used cooperage from the Domaine Lafarge in Volnay. The result is old-school cru Beaujolais, built to age. Any readers looking for Gamay that will converge with great Pinot Noir should look no further.
Wine Advocate, May 29, 2020. Drink 2025 – 2045
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